![]() ![]() This can help you to answer the question of “how long can you drive with a bad throwout bearing?”īefore we can discuss a bad throwout bearing symptoms, you need to know what the throwout bearing is and the failure of the throwout bearing in your car. Since this throwout bearing is only used when you press down on the clutch pedal to shift gears, it is not always easy to tell when there is a problem with the throwout bearing. This means that if the throwout bearing does not work, you will not be able to accelerate properly or keep your engine at a high performing level. If the throwout bearing were to become damaged over time or fail, the driver will not be able to press down on the clutch to change gears. This method is gentle and effective even if step 7 must be repeated (a rare situation), because the vehicle is never subjected to the “irresistible force meeting an immovable object scenario,” since the car can move forward should the clutch disc not break free when the rear wheels hit the ground.This throwout bearing helps with the clutch performance and longevity. The clutch disc should break away from the flywheel with the finesse comparable to that of an experienced child who can separate an Oreo cookie from the white stuff without generating a crumb. When the rear wheels hit the ground, the engine attempts to move the car forward (transmission in high gear, remember?), but the rust bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel breaks under the torque load. Because the clutch pedal is depressed, only rust is holding the clutch disc to the flywheel. Your assistant “snaps” open the valve of the hydraulic jack and the rear of the car drops to the ground. Driver is prepared to stop vehicle and switch engine off immediately!.Rear wheels are off the ground and turning.Confirm that the following conditions are extant: If the clutch disc does not come free after a few gentle attempts, as described thus, proceed to more drastic measures as offered in step 7, and here you will need an assistant!ħ. Brakes should not be applied excessively hard or allowed to slip for extended periods, because this will only overheat the shoes and drums unnecessarily. If the rust bond between the flywheel and the clutch disc is fairly weak, the clutch disc should pop free during light to medium braking.Ī. With the clutch pedal depressed, the brakes (parking or foot pedal, it doesn’t matter which) are GENTLY applied. The driver depresses the clutch pedal and KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.Ħ. The engine is started and throttled up to a constant tachometer reading of about 1500 rpm.ĥ. With the engine and parking brake still OIF, the transmission is shifted into high gear.Ĥ. The driver then climbs into the car and confirms that there are no obstacles or people in front of the vehicle.ģ. With the engine and parking brake OFF and the vehicle pointed in a safe direction, use a gas station type hydraulic jack to lift both rear wheels so they are clear of the ground by about two inches.Ģ. (You really do not want to be featured on America’s Funniest Home Videos.) Now, get down to business with the following suggested procedure:ġ. Then the engine is switched OFF and the car is taken to a “safe” location (such as an empty parking lot or field) so that, should it lurch forward unexpectedly during the clutch freeing operation, there will be no objects in front of the car into which it might collide. The engine is allowed to warm up so that it starts easily and reliably. With the transmission in neutral, the engine is started, and such tune-up tasks as required are performed to obtain a reasonably smooth idle. ![]() To this end, the car, while still in the driveway or garage, is prepared as follows. This makes it appear that the crankshaft is permanently connected to the input shaft of the transmission, since no amount of pumping the clutch pedal will cause the clutch disc to disengage.Īt this point, the object of the sport is to free the dutch disc while simultaneously subjecting all the components to minimum levels of mechanical stress. It is little wonder, therefore, that at the end of an extended storage period, the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate are often found to be fused together by rust into what seems to be a solid unit. This accumulation of rust is accelerated when the parts are subject to extreme changes in temperature and humidity, as is the case when the car is stored in an unheated garage over the winter. From just normal operation, the friction surfaces of both the flywheel and the pressure plate are highly polished, and are prone to rusting out when out of use for even a few short, consecutive weeks. When a manual transmission vehicle is placed in storage, the fiber of the clutch disc is held captive, under considerable force, between the flywheel face and the pressure plate. ![]()
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